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SPECIAL FEATURE

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KUTA AND THE MAGNIFICENT SOUTH COAST

In a nation that boasts some of the most sublime scenery in the world, the south coast of Lombok surely rates as being up there with the best. South Lombok has beaches that inspire photographers from around the world and draw crowds to bake on the blindingly white sands, swim in the crystal clear oceans and challenge some of the best surf breaks in Indonesia.

Kuta is the main town and centre of tourism development on the south coast of Lombok, and is the hub for exploring the fantastic southern beaches and the many points of interest in the region. Located around 60 km south of Mataram and about one and a half hour's drive from Senggigi, Kuta (sometimes spelt Kute) makes for a wonderful day trip from other points in Lombok, or an alternative holiday destination for travellers exploring Lombok. Kuta is an unprepossessing town – a small haven of hotels, home-stays and backpacker's hostels that cater mainly to the thousands of surfers from around the world who are drawn to the area every year.

Kuta and the surrounding beaches have gained an international reputation for some of the best surfing destinations in Southeast Asia. It is here that the gentle waters surrounding Lombok meet the currents of the Indian Ocean, forming great swells and surf breaks. Kuta attracts thousands of visitors every year for the great surf locations nearby and it's easy to hire a board and a surf guide from here to learn surfing or, for experienced surfers, to access the more challenging surf breaks in the area.

The drive down to the south coast is an interesting rural tour of small villages and farming communities. Fields of tobacco, corn and peanuts line the roadsides and farmers till the fields using antiquated ploughs pulled by large water buffalo. Just before arriving in Kuta, the road passes two traditional Sasak villages Sade and Rambitan. On the east side of the road is Rambitan, a village that caters to tourists and has authentic clusters of thatched lumbung, or traditional rice barns. On the west side of the road is Sade, an authentic hilltop village with one of the oldest mosques in Lombok, Mesjid Kuno. Both villages are interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living within the compounds, where life continues as it has for centuries. Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of these villages and are happy to share a glimpse of their lifestyles with visitors.

The south coast itself provides plenty of opportunities for exploring beaches and coastal scenery of such breath-taking beauty it is hard to describe. Around 4 km east of Kuta is Tanjung A'an, with white sand beaches and good waves for surfers. Further east is Gerupuk, well known as a top surf location and situated on a peninsula of land that juts out into the ocean, with stunning views of the sea, and the surrounding islands and bays.

To the west of Kuta are a series of beautiful beaches and bays hidden behind headlands and rolling hills, providing peaceful and secluded spots for picnics and swimming. Mawun Beach is around 30 minutes drive to the west and is a picturesque bay with a nice white sand beach and calm waves, perfect for swimming. Mawi, just west, has good right- and left-hand barrels for surfing when the swell is large enough. Further west are picturesque Selong Blanak and many more scenic bays and beaches, largely deserted, although the road deteriorates rapidly and the going can be rough at times. Be sure to use an experienced local guide with a good vehicle.

There is a good variety of hotels and restaurants for all budgets in Kuta to make a stay enjoyable, including the up-market Novotel Lombok Resort with its stunning beachfront location and traditional Sasak architecture. Situated just to the east of the main Kuta area, this beach is sometimes referred to as Mandalika, named after the legendary Princess Mandalika. It is near here that thousands of people gather every year to celebrate the colourful ritual of Bau Nyale, when masses of sea worms spawn in the waters offshore.

Steeped in history and legend, the south coast is a fascinating area to visit, whether your interests are historical, cultural or just the opportunity to see and explore some of the most beautiful and pristine coastal scenery in Indonesia.

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